Prep the citrus and spices: Slice 1 orange into rounds. Using a peeler, remove 3 to 4 wide strips of zest from the remaining orange and the lemon, then juice the zested orange (about 1/3 cup).

Stovetop method: In a large nonreactive pot, combine wine, water, sugar, orange juice, orange and lemon zest strips, 2 to 3 orange slices, cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise, peppercorns, allspice, and ginger.

Warm gently over medium-low until steam rises and tiny bubbles appear at the edges, 10 to 12 minutes. Do not boil. Reduce to low and let it gently simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until fragrant and spiced to your liking.

Taste and adjust: Add more sugar or honey 1 tablespoon at a time to taste. For extra citrus, add another slice or a squeeze of orange.

Finish and serve: Remove from heat, stir in brandy if using, and strain into a heatproof pitcher. Ladle into mugs and garnish with fresh orange slices and a cinnamon stick.

Slow cooker method: Add all ingredients except brandy to a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker. Cover and cook on Low for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until steaming and aromatic.

Switch to Warm, strain out the spices and zest, then stir in brandy if using. Keep covered on Warm for serving, 2 to 3 hours. Add fresh orange slices to the pot for a pretty look without over-steeping.

For a crowd: Double the recipe in an 8-quart pot or large slow cooker. Start with 3/4 cup sugar, then sweeten to taste after warming.

Make-ahead: Simmer as directed, strain, cool, and refrigerate up to 3 days. Reheat over low until steaming, 5 to 8 minutes, and garnish fresh.